Test Driving The Lanesborough Grill – Modern British in Glamorous Surroundings | Road test

The Lanesborough Grill dining room is a real spectacle

What should we know about the Lanesborough Grill?

This is the new restaurant at the Lanesborough Hotel. Last summer, chef Shay Cooper (ex-Julie’s and The Goring) joined the hotel as executive chef. Since then, he’s been working on plans to give the hotel restaurant (where Celeste once was) a complete overhaul. And now they’re ready to showcase that work as the restaurant has just reopened as “modern British restaurant” The Lanesborough Grill.

Where is it exactly ?

You’ll find The Lanesborough on the west side of Hyde Park Corner, practically above Hyde Park Corner station (take the hand-scribbled exit that says ‘Harrods’ and it’ll send you in the right direction). The restaurant is along the main lobby of the hotel and to the right. It’s a beautiful room with a huge domed glass roof, which makes it a good place for lunch or dinner.

At the moment they are also doing a thriving business in Bridgerton’s Afternoon Teas as an official Netflix series partner.

Where should we go for a drink first?

Definitely visit the Library Bar here at the hotel. We had never been for a drink before and were surprised at how lovely it was – it is one of those timeless, cozy places to have a drink. If you’re looking for some privacy, opt for the ‘love nest’ table which is tucked away in the main bar section and is perfect for two.

lanesborough grill restaurant reviews hotel londonA floral shimmer at the Library Bar

If it is a “grill”, are we talking about a lot of meat?

Not really – it’s a steakhouse in title only, think of it more as a description as a classic style hotel restaurant. For the menu, Shay says the aim is to “present a seasonal, modern British à la carte menu championing regional artisans and the best seasonal produce from across the country”.

In practice, this means a menu that will change regularly – especially at this time of year. Here’s a selection of what we had to give you a taste:

lanesborough grill restaurant reviews hotel londonCoronation Crab Salad, Curry and Lime Sabayon (£19) – an absolutely stunning dish, with the light curry seasoning perfectly set against the crab.

lanesborough grill restaurant reviews hotel londonButtermilk fried quail with mushroom vinaigrette, spring onions and chicken (£18) – perfect crispy boneless quail, a very fancy take on KFC.

lanesborough grill restaurant reviews hotel londonHereford beef tartare, crisp hops shoots, marinated egg yolk, truffle and sherry vinaigrette (£21) – you’ll have to take our word for it, there’s a lovely mound of beef beneath all that greenery. We especially loved these crispy hop shoots.

lanesborough grill restaurant reviews hotel londonWild Garlic Risotto, Brightwell Ash, Puffed Grains, Fava Beans, Sautéed Morels (£32) – a bowl of seasonal color and flavor and the puffed grains added a nice touch of texture.

lanesborough grill restaurant reviews hotel londonCotswold chicken breast, black garlic stuffing, mashed cauliflower cheese and roast chicken velouté (£35)

Room for dessert?

There are five options on the dessert menu, not including the cheese option which comes to you on a groaning trolley with British cheeses to choose from.

lanesborough grill restaurant reviews hotel londonRose tea ice cream sandwich, rhubarb sorbet (£13) – the rosiest dessert we’ve had in a while, the ice cream is sandwiched between layers of meringue with this rhubarb sorbet forced preventing everything from being too sweet.

lanesborough grill restaurant reviews hotel londonCaramelised brioche pudding, burnt orange puree, marmalade ice cream (£13) – a crunchy brioche that’s actually a surprisingly light way to finish.

And to drink?

Adam Ramic is the head sommelier here and if you want to confide in him for recommendations, you’ll be glad you did. The irrepressible Ramic led us on a path of mostly English wines, including an introduction to a real show stopper from Chapel Down’s upscale Kit’s Coty range, their 2018 Chardonnay. You can also finish your meal, as we we did, by a flight of Scotch whisky.

General thoughts:

The restaurant here has always been one of the finest dining venues in London, now it feels like with Shay at the helm it now has a menu to match that environment. This would be a particularly good place to take relatives or out-of-town visitors looking for a special place for lunch or dinner.

Learn more about the Lanesborough Grill

Where is it? Hyde Park Corner, London SW1X 7TA

How to book: call 020 7259 5599

Learn more: Visit their website or follow them on Instagram @thelanesboroughgrill

Hot diners dined as guests of the Lanesborough. Prices correct at time of publication.

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